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Simon says 'SA produce is the best!'

Simon Bryant

Hilton Adelaide Executive Chef and co-presenter of the ABC's The Cook and the chef Simon Bryant is a passionate advocate of South Australian produce.

By his own admission, Simon Bryant is not a smiler. But give him a delivery of fresh South Australian ducks, a box of ripe locally-grown tomatoes or a crate of free-range eggs and he's all smiles.

"In Melbourne when you get your produce delivery each morning you almost cry [such is the mediocrity of the offering]. In Adelaide, you just smile."

Simon says the quality of South Australian produce is "brilliant."

"Adelaide is the place to be if you cook. I can't understand if you're a chef why you'd want to work anywhere else."

So passionate is Simon about the local food scene, that he has designed his entire menu in The Brasserie at Hilton Adelaide around it.

The result is the long-running and very successful Seriously South Australian! promotion, which was recognised in the 2006 Premier's Food Awards with a Services to Industry Award, sponsored by Rural Solutions SA.

Fine dining at the Brasserie

The Seriously South Australian! promotion in The Brasserie showcases a different regional menu every six weeks. Much like the man behind the initiative, the food is presented simply, elegantly and without pretension.

Simon Bryant started off his working life as a motor mechanic. However, he soon tired of tinkering with cars for a living and headed to Melbourne University to undertake an economics degree.

To support himself through his degree he worked mornings in the Melbourne University kitchen, "but I found I enjoyed the work more than the tail end of my degree." So he ditched economics and "bummed around" kitchens for the next couple years - focusing on Asian kitchens and cookery - "before getting serious and gaining my qualifications."

He moved to Adelaide in his early 30's to work at the Hilton Adelaide.

"I specifically wanted to work with [iconic South Australian chef] Cheong Liew.

Eight years on Simon is still at the Hilton, having worked through the ranks and in all the outlets to now head up The Brasserie.

Simon deals with producers on a daily basis and says the level of passion they have for the industry is inspiring.

"They really do care about the state of their product, the ethics of its production and their land. When you talk to producers here it's not just about their yield and the bucks."

He says it's this passion that sustains the industry: "To me, success and passion go hand in hand."

So, as a chef, what does he look for in his produce?

Simon says he gets offered "a million" samples a day - but a good sample is only one part of the story.

At the top of the list is whether the produce has been grown ethically and sustainably.

"The first thing I want to know is the environment that the produce came from...[because I believe that] if you look after the environment of the animal or the plant everything else will follow. You'll get good yield and good product."

"I want to know from a producer their mentality about producing the primary product. If it's a secondary product I want to know what went into producing it."

"Then I guess I look to see if there's a place in my restaurant for it and how I can use it. Then of course I want to taste it."

Last but certainly not least is the supply chain, which Simon says can be the real killer.

"For example, someone might bring in a fabulous tomato, but I need to know whether they can bring me that same quality tomato throughout the whole season, and on time?"

Simon says it's sometimes hard for producers to come to terms with the large-scale requirements of the hotel and to be reliable and consistent.

Interestingly, price is not a motivator for him in choosing a product.

Seating at the Brasserie

"I'm not that price sensitive and I'll pay for good stuff. I've got to make a profit for my owners but that doesn't mean I have to get the cheapest things available. I need products that will build my business, and the profits will come later."

Whatever he's doing, it's clear that Simon Bryant and The Brasserie are on the right track.

The eatery has picked up a few awards in recent months, but Simon says the Premier's Food Award is particularly special.

"A few years ago we made a decision to use local and now it's the core of our restaurant and how [we market it]. But it's been hard.

"This Award says 'well done' to all of the chefs, waiters, producers and customers and others who have made it happen."

For more information

Contact
The Brasserie at Hilton Adelaide
p +61 8237 0697
w www.thebrasserie.com.au

Food Talk, Winter 2007 (Issue 25)